The Northern Territory is roughly divided into two areas - the "Top End" in and around Darwin which receives heavy rainfall for three to five months of the year and "The Centre" in and around Alice Springs which has low rainfall and no permanent rivers. Few people live in the vast areas in between with more than half of the Territory's population living within a 40km radius of Darwin.
Introduction
Courage, Resilience & Innovation
Indigenous Connections
Aboriginal Sacred Sites
Alcohol
Permits
Ranger Guided Tours
Natural Wonders
Our Pioneering Past
The History of Darwin :
Darwin's history is a colourful mix of aboriginal skirmishes, gold rush, Japanese WW II bombings and cyclone devastation. For more than a century Darwin was Australia's pioneering outpost in the isolated north, but today with Indonesia only a short flight away, it is our northern gateway to South East Asia and beyond.
The Northern Territory is roughly divided into two areas the "Top End" in and around Darwin which receives heavy rainfall for three to five months of the year and "The Centre" in and around Alice Springs which has low rainfall and no permanent rivers. Few people live in the vast areas in between with more than half of the Territory's population living within a 40km radius of Darwin.
Today, Australia's only tropical capital boasts a population of 77,000 who, like the city itself, are younger on average than the rest of Australia. The relaxed lifestyle, magnificent sunsets, near-pristine natural environment, multicultural mix and tropical splendour, all create a unique experience and as the advertising catchcry says: "you'll never never know if you never never go".
Courage, Resilience & Innovation
War and Devastation Shape The City :
But no two events have shaped Darwin's history more than the Japanese Bombing and Cyclone Tracey.
In 1942 the Darwin population was approximately 2000. There was believed to be only 63 women, about 300 military personnel, with the balance made up of civilian workers. On Thursday 19 February, with the temperature hovering at 33 degrees in the shade and the humidity around 90 per cent, Darwin was waking to another hot day. The wet season was tailing off but you could still "cut the air with a knife". There were 44 ships in the harbour and their sailors were already sweating in the heat.
Unexpected Attack from The Air :
The incoming Japanese planes were first spotted by Father John McGrath at the Bathurst Island mission north of Darwin. He radioed Darwin at 9.30am and this message was passed to RAAF command at 9.37am. Strangely no general warning was given and there was no sounding of alarms. At the first sound of planes many were confused, believing they may be Australian or American because they flew in from the south. The first siren wailed at 9.58am as the Japanese began dropping their bombs. The air raid lasted more than an hour, with 188 planes dropping more than 300 bombs and 243 people killed and over 300 wounded.
Darwin was gripped by panic. Training went out the window as the stampede to exit Darwin as quickly as possible began. In what later became known as the "Adelaide River Stakes", people of all colours and creeds walked, ran, rode bikes, horses and drove cars, not stopping until they reached Adelaide River, 115kms south. Deplorable behaviour perhaps, but with no water and electricity, rumours abounding, no communication, and leaders lacking the skill to take charge, wholly understandable.
The following day headlines in eastern states announced 15 killed and 24 dead. General confusion or military propaganda?. We will never know for sure, but with Australia reeling under the fall of Singapore and other "bad" news, the woes of Darwin were quickly off the front pages. Between February 1942 and October 1943, the Japanese launched more than 60 air raids on Darwin. It was not until the Americans sent reinforcements in April 1942, that the Japanese started to endure heavy losses.
Missing In Action :
An interesting mystery of war is the story of Hajime Toyoshima who crashed landed on Melville Island after the February 19 raid. A float plane was sent from one of the Japanese escorting cruisers but they failed to locate him. It was believed he was found by aborigines, and taken to the mission station, but his name never appeared in Australian records of Japanese prisoners, nor among those who returned to Japan at the end of the war, or died in captivity. He simply vanished. Interestingly, this information was supplied by Fushida, the leader of the Japanese raid on 19 February, who later became a Christian lay preacher and lived in California.
Cyclone Tracey :
Darwin was again under siege on 25 December 1974, when Cyclone Tracey struck with devastating fury, killing 64 residents and injuring thousands. The city of 43,000 residents was completely destroyed. In what became the largest airlift in Australian history, more than 30,000
people were flown out of Darwin. As a consequence of Cyclone Tracey, Darwin was rebuilt, and is therefore the newest and most modern capital city in the nation.
An important Aboriginal site called the Dariba Nunggalinya (Old Man Rock) is located off Casuarina Coastal Reserve. Visible at low tide, this sacred site is believed to be the final resting place of the first Larrakai man. There have been claims that 1974's Cyclone Tracey was a consequence of the disturbance of Nunggalinya's resting place. Today it is estimated that one quarter of the Territory's population are aboriginal.
There are a number of places or objects in the Top End that hold special significance for Aboriginal people.
Some, for example like Nourlangie Rock, are open to the public. Visitors are welcome but respect should be shown for these sites. Some sites are protected by law and there are penalties for defacing or damaging them.
There are also many significant areas including rock art and ceremonial sites where photography is forbidden. Some sites may be for men or women only. We ask that you respect these conditions of entry.
Some Aboriginal communities impose restrictions on the importation and/or consumption of alcohol. Aboriginal communities have been ravaged by the excesses of alcohol, petrol sniffing and the resultant social problems. Elders are making attempts to rebuild their shattered communities and so alcohol may be strictly forbidden. If travelling through Aboriginal land and intending to carry liquor, please check first with the NT Liquor Commission on (08) 8981 1955 or with the relevant Land Council when applying for your permit.
Aboriginal Land and Respect for Their Rights and Traditions :
Travel through Aboriginal Land requires a permit. If you are travelling on an organised tour this becomes the responsibility of the tour operator.
Processing of the permits can take 4-6 weeks so applying in writing early is essential. You will need to provide the names of all persons travelling, the address of the principal applicant, vehicle details, duration of intended stay, itinerary and routing and finally an address for where the permit is to be sent. Once they have this information the approval of the relevant Aboriginal communities is sought. Please remember that it is the right of the Traditional Owners to refuse permits.
Public Roads that cross Aboriginal land are exempt from the permit provisions, however, the exemptions apply to the immediate road corridor only. If there is need for fuel stops, travellers should seek transit permits from the relevant Land Council(s). Many roads crossing Aboriginal lands are designated as public roads, others are designated non-public roads. Both these road types have rules and regulations, so please seek advise from the Land Council(s) before travelling.
Darwin, Borroloola, Nhulunbuy or Katherine apply to:
Northern Land Council
PO Box 42921
Casaurina NT 0811
Tel: (08) 8920 5100
Fax: (08) 8945 2633
Tiwi Islands (Melville & Bathurst Islands) :
Tiwi Land Council
PO Box 38545
Winnellie NT 0821
Tel: (08) 8947 1838
Fax: (08) 8947 1840
East Arnhem Land
Dhimurru Land Management
PO Box 1551
Nhulunbuy NT 0881
Tel: (08) 8987 3992
Fax: (08) 8987 3224
Alice Springs & Tennant Creek Region
Central Land Council
33 Stuart Highway (Nth)
PO Box 3321
Alice Springs NT 0871
Tel: (08) 8951 6320
Fax: (08) 8953 4345 or (08) 8953 4343
The Parks and Wildlife Commission offers Ranger Guided Tours in several Territory Parks and reserves. These are normally free and take place mainly between May and October. Your Ranger Guide will introduce you to the unique aspects of the flora, fauna and landscapes in the Territory. For more information of all the Ranger Guided Tours contact the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory.
The Top End
Head Office (and Darwin Region)
Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory
Goyder Centre
25 Chung Wah Terrace
Palmerston NT 0830
PO Box 496
Palmerston NT 0831
Tel: (08) 8999 551
Fax: (08) 8932 3849
Katherine Region
Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory
1920 Giles Street
Katherine NT 0850
PO Box 344
Katherine NT 0851
Tel: (08) 8973 8888
Fax: (08) 8973 8899
Red Centre
Alice Springs Region
Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory
Tom Hare Building
Arid Zone Research Institute
Stuart Highway
Alice Springs NT 0870
PO Box 1046
Alice Springs NT 0871
Tel: (08) 8951 8211
Fax: (08) 8951 8268
Parks Australia North
Kakadu National park
PO Box 71
Jabiru NT 0886
Tel: (08) 8938 1100
Fax: (08) 8938 1115
Uluru- Kata Tjuta National Park
Po Box 119
Yulara NT 0872
Tel: (08) 8956 2299
Fax: (08) 8956 2064
Cultural Centre
Tel: (08) 8956 3138
Information to allow you to gain the utmost from your visit to the Northern Territory. We do not want to deter you in anyway, but believe that the better informed you are, the safer and more enjoyable your holiday experience will be.
The Top End has two seasons, "the dry" May to October (from 20 degrees to 33 degrees with low humidity) and "the tropical summer" November to April (average temperatures range from 23 degrees to 34 degrees with high humidity).
During "the dry" the weather is so predictable outdoor events can be arranged years in advance with out any fear of rain. During "the tropical summer" previously called "the wet season" the heavy monsoonal rains normally fall late afternoon and overnight. "The tropical summer" also brings spectacular lightning displays and the threat of cyclones. Many locals prefer "the tropical summer" time of year when everything seems to burst into life.
Flooding in the outlying areas and parks is very common so great care should be taken when driving out of Darwin at this time. Being stranded on a flooded road is a possibility and sufficient planning should be done beforehand to ensure maximum safety and comfort.
Driving in the Northern Territory
Many travellers set off totally unaware of just how treacherous the Australian Outback can be. Events can develop into life and death situations very quickly.
There were four British girls who had a puncture in their hire car and didn't know how to operate the jack. It was the hottest time of the year. When found they were wandering aimlessly, getting sunburnt and doing all the wrong things.
Then there the fellow who set out in his brand new 4WD. When he went to get the spare he found it missing. He hadn't bothered to check it before he left.
But last and probably saddest of all, was the death of Maria Soper in February 1999. Her car broke down on her way to a remote Queensland cattle station where she'd taken a job as a rouseabout only two weeks before. Dressed only in thongs, with no hat or water she left the comparative safety of her car, and walked 16km in blistering heat.
With temperatures hovering around 42 degrees, no water, no hat and no walking shoes, it is surprising this gutsy girl survived for so long. Her body was found on the side of the road where she had collapsed from exhaustion. Sadly she had been walking parallel to a flowing creek which was only 2 km from the road. The line of eucalypts that followed the creek were visible from the road, but Maria did not understand that they signified water.
A little planning, a little local knowledge, careful checking of vehicle, equipment and essentials before departure, and you can avoid this happening to you.
Be Prepared - It Could Save Your Life
Firstly, if you are planning an extensive driving trip around The Centre and Top End I would find the video by Malcolm Douglas called "Survival In The Outback". Douglas is an Aussie icon who can survive off the land in the most isolated areas. He has some very basic tips for survival that none of us can ignore.
The Territory roads vary in standard from first class, all weather sealed roads to unsealed and 4x4 adventure routes. Thankfully 95% of the major tourist spots are accessible by sealed roads and the average car equipped with normal provisions can safely enjoy a wonderful holiday.
In Australian we drive on the left hand side of the road and the vehicles are right hand drive. If seat belts are fitted to a vehicle it is law that all passengers must be belted up. Fines are imposed if the belts are not worn and it is the driver who has responsibility. A valid Licence must be carried at all times when driving.
Fuel and food stops are every 100km to 300km along the main routes. It is only when you venture into the remote areas that fuel becomes a problem. Planning your fuel stops is recommended because you may need to carry extra fuel. In remote areas some service stations have restricted opening hours and limited credit card facilities. Always carry a good map of the area, especially when travelling off the main roads.
Basic spare parts need to be carried, a jack, spare tyre, fan belt and radiator hoses. If you plan to go off the main road, you will need tyre repair kit, coil, condenser, tow rope, distributor points, a jack with a wide base to stop it sinking in sand and mud, engine oil, axe and shovel. When travelling never carry less than 20 litres of water. Remember "never go without H2O".
For many of us coming straight from the city driving on an unsealed road is as foreign as the country itself. Dangers to be aware of are as follows:
While Travelling Dangers to Be Aware Of
Driving long distances can cause fatigue which is one of the most common causes of serious accidents. Stop and rest every two hours.
In the Territory there are no speed restrictions on the open road but remember you may need to stop suddenly. Stock and wildlife have no respect for travellers. Many sealed and unsealed roads are unfenced so stock and wildlife are free to wander. During the night, dawn and dusk driving is best avoided as this is the time the wildlife come out to feed and play.
As the name implies Road Trains are not just trucks, but trucks and trailers, sometimes up to 50 metres long. Known to hurtle along at great speed they are best given plenty of room. Should you decide to overtake one allow at least 1km of clear road ahead.
Should you get caught in a flash flood do not attempt to cross flooded bridges or causeways unless you are absolutely certain of the depth of the water and that the road has not been damaged in anyway. Most flash floods recede within 24 hours so it is best to sit it out. Being a good traveller you will have extra food and plenty of water for just such an eventuality.
Dust on outback roads can obscure your vision. Do not take risks. Wait until it settles. In particular do not pass while driving into dust.
Never Ever Leave Your Vehicle :
Should your vehicle breakdown or you lose your way it is an unbroken rule that you stay with your vehicle. A missing vehicle is easier to find than a missing person. Economise on water if not on a main road. If really desperate there is always the water in your radiator. If you intend to leave the main road, always let someone up ahead know of your expected time of arrival so they can alert authorities if you are delayed. Again stocks of food and water make this wait for rescue more comfortable.
Dress in the Territory is casual and most importantly comfortable. Restaurants, clubs, hotels and casinos all require smart casual dress and especially no thongs or T-Shirts without collars. If you see the dress code "Darwin Rig" this simply means long trousers and collared shirt for men and something casual but elegant for ladies. Incidentally, many pubs and clubs are now specifying no Thongs and T-Shirts even during the day.
A shady hat will assist with the strong sunlight and clothing should cover arms and shoulders. Sturdy shoes or walking boots are a must for sightseeing in Darwin and walking in the park areas. Cotton clothing is always cooler and so the first choice. Long pants are a good idea as some of the native plants can be prickly. Remember too that in The Centre the nights can become very cold as temperatures plummet. Thermal clothing, and when camping, a good quality sleeping bag are essential. Days are still hot so Top End requirements still apply.
Due to the climate it is recommended that everyone, especially children, have a factor 15 plus sun screen applied before venturing out in the sun. Remember to keep re-applying the cream during the day.
When visiting the Top End you should be aware and take account of the climate and its effect on your body. Water is the cheapest and most effective cooling agent for the body, and it is especially important to consume adequate amounts of water (a minimum of eight glasses of water a day) to keep from dehydration. If active, (walking or climbing) this will become even more important and additional water will need to be consumed. Remember if you are thirsty you are already dehydrated.
Although Darwin is renowned for having fewer flies than many other parts of Australia, insect repellent is required for the evenings, especially if camping or eating outdoors. We recommend "Rid" which is bought at most supermarkets and chemists in Australia.
Box Jellyfish are prevalent in the Top End waters particularly during October to May. Care should be taken at all other times throughout the year as a sting from a Box Jellyfish can be fatal.
Crocodiles are also active in the Top End waters year round, so it is essential to observe warning signs. There is always the chance that warning signs may have been removed by vandals or souvenir hunters, so swim only if signage advises or check first with Park Rangers.
"Safe areas " for Top End swimming include pools, man made lakes and most waterfall pools. In the Top End saltwater crocodiles are common. Do not be tricked by the name as they are found in both salt and fresh water.
Never wade or swim where warning signs are displayed. A crocodile attack is swift and deadly.
A final checklist for a rewarding day of adventure or how to arrive alive.
The Origins of the City :
John Lort Stokes, Commander of The Beagle, first named Port Darwin in 1839, in honour of Charles Darwin, the famous scientist and naturalist who had accompanied him to South America.
It was not until 1869 that a permanent European settlement was established by the South Australian Government who had control of the Territory at that time. The coastal region in and around Darwin with it's diverse plant communities of mangroves, woodlands, paperbark swamps and coastal monsoon vine forests provided the indigenous inhabitants with a varied diet and the raw material from which they constructed their tools and implements. The traditional owners, the Larrakai, did not welcome the white-fella invasion, and several fierce clashes ensued. Sadly, Aboriginal communities throughout the Territory were decimated.
During the construction of the Overland Telegraph Line between Port Augusta and Darwin from 1870 to 1872, line workers uncovered some alluvial gold near Pine Creek, about 200km south of Darwin. This minor gold rush attracted more than 7000 Chinese and a handful of Europeans which was the beginning of the extraordinary cultural mix that is now Darwin. In 1884, the pearling industry brought people from Japan, Thursday Island, Timor and the Philippines, many of whose ancestors are prominent families in Darwin today.
In the 1950's many Greeks began to arrive in Darwin and went on to become leaders in the pearling and construction industries. With the close proximity to South East Asia, there is now a diverse mix of Asian nationalities, with many refugees from Timor and Vietnam calling Darwin home.
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